Articles by "novelty"

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Showing posts with label novelty. Show all posts

 photo love-aesthetics-move-box.gif It has been exactly 6 years since I wrote my first post on Love Aesthetics and my digital brainchild was born. It is the project I've been involved in for the longest amount of time in my life. My blog has lasted longer than high school. Though Love Aesthetics has slowly been growing into a thing on its own and has outgrown the format of just a blog.

Thank you all for reading and being with me all these years. The best thing about running this blog has been meeting so many of you talented readers and making a lot of new friends. There is a Dutch expression 'stok achter de deur' which literally translates into 'stick behind the door', which means a threat in the most positive sense of the word, an extra motivation for doing something. So thank you all for stopping by each time (and leaving all the lovely comments, I've read each single one of them), you have been my 'stick behind the door' to update Love Aesthetics, to keep the ideas coming and to push myself to deliver better quality each time. I can honestly say that I love you!

Please do come and take a look at our new digital place! There are a lot of new updates waiting!
I've been working hard on it the last month together with Fleur Glansbeek and can not be more excited to finally invite you over!








/ NEW WEBSITE !
http://LOVE-AESTHETICS.nl








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Earlier this week I had the pleasure to digitally meet Min Kim(25) during a little FaceTime chat. After seeing her wonderful work I tracked her down like a Facebook-stalker for a little interview. It was lovely to talk with the super kind and enthusiastic Min about her creative process, her home country Korea vs. living in London, playing dress up and individuality.

Ivania/ Please do tell me more about the story behind the collection

Min/ I like to tell personal stories with my collections. I am very interested in the small things, inspiration always comes from my own experiences; like memories of dressing up with my sister. These small things become bigger, wider and more serious as I research them. There are a lot of references to stories and episodes between women on a very personal level.

My inspiration for the graduation collection came from the 'PFD phase' (Pink Frilled Dress Phase), which most girls go through. I wanted to make an issue about this situation. In my research you'll also find images of girls dressing up in big circular dresses which create unexpected silhouettes.

Ivania/ Your research is really touching, as I have a little kid and get to deal with the 'prescriptions' society has for the genders; pink for girls, blue for boys for example. It can be interpreted as quite a feminist statement you make, would you call yourself a feminist?

Min/ Exactly, there are so many color choices, society should give more space to them so they can make their own choices. I never thought about it that way. I have never deliberately wanted to make a very feminist statement with this collection.

Ivania/ What are your future plans?

Min/First I'd like to gain some experience within a team of designers and to further develop my skills. I'd love to stay in Europe.

Ivania /There are a lot of interesting fashion projects coming from Korea though, wouldn't you want to go back?

Min/Trends in Korea are on a masse scale, most people dress to impress other people. I'd like to design for women who dress for their individual self.

Ivania /We’ve only seen this one collection from you, what would you call your signature elements, or which elements can be expected to come back in your future work?

Min/ The references to episodes, stories and relationships between women. And working with silhouettes that are a bit distorted like for example the circular shapes.
images courtesy of Min Kim< br />photographs by Heewon Kim

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Attending the Jef Montes show at Vodafone Firsts Fashion Lab was like attending a ritual from another planet.

The image of a burning communion candle appears behind the runway. The first girl comes out, holding two blue tubes in her hands like candles and steadily walks down the runway to a slow beat. Halfway she suddenly, yet slowly turns around the tubes and blue ink starts pouring out over her chest, staining the white gauze dress and leaving a blood like trail behind on the runway (see video!). The following models step through the ink, staining the bottom of their gowns and shoes and spreading the blue fluid.

Dripping wet hair and bleached brows. The blue fiberglass pieces are so shiny and smooth in the way they move that they seem liquid. The references to traditional catholicism and this high tech futuristic outcome. Hearing Jef explain all his hard work and thoughts behind it personally (little details like; embroideries are on the left side because that's where your heart is), and seeing the finished product of his ideas right next to him was incredibly moving.

The amount of techniques, the extensive fabric researching that has gone into this collection blew my mind. Fiberglass weavings, burnt silk to create a pattern, steaming and heating synthetics to make the fabric bulge and appear wet, tiny tiny beaded details, hand painted fiberglass panels, wool binded to fiberglass just to name a few things. No matter how many backstage pictures, ultra close ups or live videos you show, there is nothing like seeing these couture pieces in real life. Kudos to Jef.
/ thanks to Vodafone
/ backstage photos by Romeo


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/ Most anticipated
Jef Montes' show is what I am most excited about during the entire Amsterdam Fashion Week. Ever since I saw his impressive work first come down the runway at the Artez 2012 graduation show, where these pictures were taken, I've been a huge fan. It is amazing how Jef approaches materials in a high tech way and how he translates inspiration coming from gothic architecture into modern silhouettes on bodies. Jef tells me that his graduation pieces were only a blue print of many more ideas. He even gave a little clue about his upcoming collection; to take the wet look of the fiberglass dresses very literally and that it will be all about light. I can not wait!

/ Two Tickets To Give Away
I'm beyond excited to meet some of my readers give away tickets for you guys to join me during Vodafone's Fashion Lab at AFW. Jef Montes will be presenting his collection at the Vodafone Firsts Fashion Lab; a cool initiative for new talent to showcase on a professional platform for the first time. (For those who don't get the tickets, no need to feel left out! You can see the show live via the Fashion Week app. And you don't even have to dress up. Or leave your laptop and bed. )

If you(+ a friend) want to attend Amsterdam Fashion Week for the first time:
/ leave your name and email address in the comments.
/ the show will take place this Friday at 20.00 in Amsterdam, so be sure you can be in town
/ on Wednesday I will randomly pick someone who will receive 2 tickets + more info about the exact place
pictures by Romeo
dress by Jef Montes
thanks to Vodafone Fashion Lab


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While quickly leafing through the latest Acne Paper, these striking pages stopped me for at least 10 minutes. A series of black and white portraits of twenty-eight leading actresses taken between 1988 and 1999 by French photographer Brigitte Lacombe. Including Meryl Streep 1988, Glenn Close 1989, Demi Moore in 1989, Vanessa Redgrave 1996, Uma Thurman 1988 and Julianne Moore 1994. Every image is accompanied by a little anecdote from Lacombe about when and where it was taken and about the the actresses in it. Though I haven't gotten the chance to read through the entire magazine yet, for me this is the visual highlight of the issue. I can just stare at these intriguing women for hours.

I love Acne paper because it is so pure, every single issue is an in depth, inspiring bundle of fantastically curated content with no interruptions of annoying advertisements. Thank you dear Acne for sending me a copy
Acne Paper - The Actress
Issue N°15

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Though resort collections don't get much coverage here in the digital world, I think that they shouldn't be underestimated. These multi seasonal collections are the ones that we will find in stores the longest, available from October to June and often taking up 80% to 90% of what boutiques buy. It are no longer mini summer collections with nautical themes that pop up every winter to fill the suitcases for the few that go on a tropical cruise.

Here's the vision of Jonathan Anderson, the golden boy of London Fashion Week. This collection feels so incredibly relevant right now. I love how he continued his story for fall and gave away a little taste of his ideas for spring/summer; the scrunched together sheer fabric and the draping oand knotting of heavy fabrics.
images: courtesy of Style.com

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Acne has some serious balls.
Season after season, the design team does whatever it feels like, without thinking too much about sales and commercialism. They stay in their own bubble and are assured enough of their vision to take -what others would call- risks; the previous collections with magnified silhouettes (which weren't liked by everyone), this time it was more in the details.

I liked the choices they made; distressed jeans had holes right on the butt cheeks, not the most commercial thing to do. Or when retailers requested to make the jackets more affordable, Acne made them more expensive this season because they chose to improve the quality instead of focussing on the prices. Yet, they manage to keep that Swedish no-fuss-simplicity in there too. Yes. This is why Acne is one of my favorite brands. (BTW, I noticed that their logo has had some slight changes..)

The amount of different techniques and craftsmanship in one collection was staggering: finest embroidery on T-shirts, laser cut leather jackets, japanese cotton, Italian tailored suits and the minimalist Japanese-denim pieces. All in a Sailor and Punk theme as only Acne can present it; no cliches and nothing too obvious. To me it felt very Swedish.

on a personal note/ It was fantastic to have visited the Acne showroom instead of the runway show for a change. And be able to go through the racks of clothes that came fresh off the runway and be able to touch them and look at all the details from up close. The location was gorgeous and unexpected as usual; a big industrial building which unlike all the other shows and presentations was located in an immigrant neighborhood a little outside the center and was a bit raw instead of super polished.

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Every season, my buddy Charlie completely blows me away with her new collections, collaborations and campaigns. But now she has really, really outdone herself. Behold some of the campaign images of her current autumn winter collection. Just today she launched her very own online shop( << click,click,click guys!) where you can get these pieces. Hurray for Charlie! So proud of her!
images by: Nicole Maria Winkler

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Do you remember Mykromag? Pioneer as the first true androgynous fashion magazine exclusively in black and white (2009). Founded by Sonny Groo who has had an incredible eye for what is now and has always managed to bring the most interesting features; Formicetti, Iris van Herpen, Guillame Henri, JW Anderson to name a few and also projects like a printed a set of books in collaboration with Rad Hourani.(If you’ve been reading my blog long enough you might remember that I also used to be a regular contributor to the Mykromag blog).

But the Black and white pages of Mykro (minus the mag) are back. With a small team based in Amsterdam they've made it happen after a two year break. It somewhat reminds me of interview magazine in the way that it shows a very personal and human side of the fashion industry. The 12 interviews in this issue include 91 year old Eileen Ford founder of Ford models, Tumblr 's Fashion evangelist (that's right, this is an official title) Valentine Uhovski, Esteban Cortezar and the iconic miss Daphne Guinness.


Mykro is a quarterly publication,
available at Colette, Paris and
Athenaeum, Amsterdam
Next issue will be launched during the first week of October.

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Haute Couture always felt like something very distant to me. Something that I'd only occasionally see presented on a dead plastic mannequin in a fashion exposition at a museum. Something that's only made for a small elite club from another era. Something that's so exclusive that it seems like it's taking place in a parallel universe to which we will never have access to. Though the reason why I love fashion so much is because it is so close to the body that it almost becomes a part of it, an extension of yourself, something that everyone must participates in and from which there is no escape. Haute Couture felt so untouchable and far away that I always regarded it more as art than as fashion. Basically I felt excluded and left out from it, not having a spare 10 grand to spend on a dress, not being a celebrity in need of a red carpet outfit and not having access to the intimate shows to see the garments in movement.

Attending the Maison Martin Margiela show forced me to think more about wether Haute Couture is still relevant in 2013. Yes we already know that it is about the detailing, the craftsmanship, the exclusivity, blablabla. But you never get to experience that by just seeing the collections through images, it just never comes through unless you see it in real life, in movement. I tell you, it is impressive.

I found how important Haute Couture can be for a house right now for many other reasons than selling clothes or having celebs wear garments (let's hope that Kanye never wears a Margiela mask again, to ironically, use it for its opposite purpose: getting attention instead of being anonymous). In The case of Maison Martin Margiela, who only have had couture collections for 3 seasons, it is a way to gain more freedom. Complete conceptual freedom, the design team gets to do whatever they want without thinking about sales or wearability. It's like going back to the core of the house. I have been told that some ideas that are too unwearable and get left out of the ready to wear lines are saved for the Couture shows. It is about showing what the maison is all about, what it is capable of, what techniques it can apply.

And as expected, Maison Martin Margiela broke all the rules of Haute Couture and send some worn down jeans down the runway. These were my favorite looks, paired with oversized collars and masks made out of large marble beads on bare skin. So simple yet so extravagant. Then there was the deconstructed and reconstructed vintage and antique garments; a 1950s prom dress, an Art Nouveau curtain and even some beadings from the Napoleon-era. Recuperating these vintage and antique pieces was such a respectful way to treat clothes, almost like an homage, making old clothes relevant again for the future. It could even be a statement from MMM connected to the relevance haute couture itself.

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I've almost grown to love menswear more than womenswear. Perhaps because menswear is somewhat more restricted, the silhouettes don't change every season as radically as they can in womenswear and it is focussed more on appreciating details, fabrics and tailoring. 'Trends' are much more subtle and individual pieces often much more classical.

I'm a huge fan of Neil Barrett's vision of spring summer 2014. Inspiration for the collection included the modernist work of Charles and Ray Eames, particularly the shape of the iconic curvy Eames chair. But also 1990s lumberjack plaid shirts, the red/black white/black kind. Barrett magnified the plaid pattern creating a larger, simplified block pattern. The last suited the Nirvana songs to which the boys walked down the runway so well. Besides the graphic prints, the garments were kept as clean as possible, all buttons, fasteners, zippers were hidden and jackets were held together with magnetic closures.

Although these clothes are literally the future and it'll be a year until we see them on the streets, it could have also been last years or next years collection. Like the Eames chair, designed more than 50 years ago but still fresh and modern as ever, I can't imagine this ever going out of style.
Images by Luca Campari
for Dazed Digital

 photo loveaestheticsartezbeauty.jpg Never have I seen a person look this good in red lipstick as this beautiful androgynous creature that came down the runway at the ArtEZ show. Though after the show was finished, he took off the pvc suit he was showcasing but left on the matte red lipstick. Then when going for a backstage peek, one of Barbara Langendijk's models (more on her soon!) caught my eye with her thick black shiny hair in two ponytails, one clipped down with a minimalistic silver barrette.





Photography, Dominik Tarabanski
Set Design, Zu Sb
Fashion Design, Harim Jung
Makeup, Francisca Saavedra
Hairstyle, Takayoshi Tsukisawa

Yesterday I stumbled upon these gorgeous images made by Polish photographer Dominik Tarabanski.
But what struck me the most were the designs by Parsons student Harim Jung. Specially the techniques she used to build her clothes is incredibly exciting: the technical way she deconstructed the
garments and worked with the patterns, layering them , leaving them loose from the rest of the garment and then applying beautiful luxe finishings like a metal gold strip.
It even reminded me a bit of the dress with layered patterns from Hussein Chalayan.
Harim has been selected as one of the 14 Parsons student for the Empowering Imagination competition, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for her!


/Update
Managed to contact Harim Jung (thank you anonymous for leaving a link to her website!) and she was so kind to answer a few questions:

/Can you please tell me a bit about the fabrics and materials that you used?
My inspiration first started from my high school uniform so I wanted the fabrics to carry the essence of it. The navy pieces were mainly wool fabrics, where as the white pieces were mainly cotton resembling the white shirt of the uniform. The brass is an additional element that comes from my experience back in high school where we couldn't wear any accessories due to the school's policy, so I designed the brass to accessorize the clothes rather than the body.

/What are your plans after graduation?
I would love to continue with my own work at the same time I am open to experiencing any opportunities that come in my way!


/In the style.com interview you mentioned that you'd like keep your garments accessible, how do you do that, do you keep functionality in mind a lot when designing?
Because the entire process of my thesis was very experimental, I didn't want to make clothes that people had a hard time wearing. The collection was about sharing my story, my memories, yet providing an experience for the wearer to create their own and interpret the pieces in their own way. I also focused on creating pieces for anyone to wear and have access to. Ultimately the goal was to to find a happy medium between the creativity and the accessibility









This London fashion week post is deliberately 3 months late.
At the time every single inch of digital fashion space was saturated by fashion week related images.
This was just to good to let it get lost in that sea of runway snapshots. Jackie JS Lee was my favorite show in London.

According to the papers on the benches on of the show, this was going to be a collection inspired by the African continent.
But as soon as the models came out it was clear that Jackie stepped far away from all the cliches involving african inspired fashion.
Instead she focussed on applying traditional african weaving techniques on her minimalist designs. Combining thick, robust loop knits with delicate fabrics
and incorporating bits of fluffy wool on top of the loafers and sandal-loafers. The show closed with four enormous box jackets in the thickest imaginable wool, too beautiful to capture well on camera.
I was lucky enough to get to meet the lovely Jackie herself and hear her explain about her urge to travel, and the way these trips inspire her.

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